How to Reduce Your Waste and Improve the Garden with a Worm Farm
A worm farm is a great way to turn your kitchen scraps into a valuable
resource and to reduce the amount in your garbage bin.
Studies have shown that crop yield and the soil's water holding
capacity increase in proportion to the soil's worm population.
Farmers have sprayed a mixture of worm castings and water onto their
pastures with excellent results.
Requirements
Worms are easy to look after but they do have a few essential
requirements.
Lots
of food to eat. This can be all
food
scraps, lawn and garden clippings, soaked paper, animal manure, organic
waste. Check the worm farm to ensure lower levels of the food pile are
being eaten. If too much food is placed into the worm farm food down
the bottom won't be eaten as compost worms are top feeders.
Temperature
control. Site your worms in a
cool place in warm/hot weather and protect from cold winds in winter.
Good
drainage. Worm farms must have
drainage holes in the bottom of them or be on a slope if worm farms are
in direct contact with the earth.
Adequate
moisture. The pile should be
moist at all times but not waterlogged. Worms lose a substantial
amount of moisture each day.
Worm Farms
and Worm Bins
Purchased
worm farms vary in size, sturdiness and price. They range from small
multi level plastic boxes on a stand to tall wooden boxes with access
to the bottom level for easy vermiculture collection. Reln manufacture a rectangular
and a round worm (Can-O-Worms) farm from recycled plastic. They retail for around
$79 - $110.
Homemade worm farms can be made from poly styrene fruit boxes obtained from the
green grocer or any other box shaped container with plenty of drainage
holes cut into the bottom. Old washing tubs or baths can also be used
as long as the drain hole is kept clear. This can be achieved
by placing a large piece of shade cloth over the
hole.
Larger worm farms can be built out of timber
(like a tall sided sandbox) and be either placed directly over the soil
or onto concrete. Place an old piece of carpet over the top to conserve
moisture. Make sure there is no hollow in the soil over which
the worm farm will be placed so that the drainage is not compromised.
If placed onto concrete you must provide shade in summer so the worms
do not die. It is a kinder option to provide shade at all times in the warmer months.
Varieties
The most commonly supplied are tiger worms, blue worms and red worms.
These compost worms have been selected for their rate of multiplication
and ability to eat large quantities of food. They are different to
garden worms so do not try to put adult compost worms into your garden
as they will likely perish. Worm eggs can be placed into the garden and
seem to adapt better to the garden environment. Worm eggs can be seen
on top of the vermicompost and can be transferred to the garden. Ensure
there is plenty of mulch/compost in the garden to feed the worms.
Worm populations are self regulatory. The more food, the more worms and
vice versa. Garden worms found in Australia do not seem to like
cohabiting with large populations of their own sort when compared to
compost worms. If you already have some garden worms and want them to
increase provide plenty of horse, cow, sheep manure or mulch to the
garden. I have seen large increases in worm populations after mixing
good quantities of horse manure into my vegetable garden.
A word of caution though: do not use the manure of drenched animals as
the parasite chemical will kill your worms as well. If in doubt, let
the manure sit for a month before spreading it in the garden or feeding
it to your worms. By that time the chemicals will have broken down.
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